Monday, June 17, 2013

Comparing realities

The travel loop we took to go to Belfast took us northwest from Navan, past Enniskillen where the G8 Summit is being held, to Belleek, then Portrush, (the name always makes me think of Doc Martin) and along the north coast. On a map you would see that we made a 3 day excursion out of a two hour (each way) trip.
We over-nighted in Portrush which, with Ireland’s weather reputation, must have a hard go as a beach town. It looks as though it is struggling but pulling itself back up after the economic disaster of the last few years. We had a truly fantastic meal at Jackman and Pye.
Portrush from the yacht club balcony/bar
what a life on a sunny day
Dunluce castle in the background
The next day we moved on to Bushmills Distillery, licensed in 1608 and considered to be the oldest licensed distillery in the world. It’s another of these world renowned operations located in less than a one-horse town and, if you can believe it, they bottle for Jameson’s! How can a company as famous as Jameson’s not have its own bottling plant? Because it’s another tiny operation located on a back street of Dublin. Bushmills town has a population of about 1200 but 120,000 tourists visit the distillery every year. 
an old copper still in the Bushmills cafe

Part of the lure of going to Northern Ireland was to visit the Giant’s Causeway. And we did, on a perfectly clear day. In November 2010 on a tour in south eastern Iceland we were taken to an isolated spot, down a minor gravel road, to the most stunning black beach and hexagonal rock formations.
Iceland, November 2010
I thought, “great, we’ll see the other end of this phenomenon in Ireland; how fun”. It turns out that legend has the Irish version connecting to somewhere in Scotland (another trip?), but more interesting was the difference in presentation. Giant’s Causeway is a UNESCO sight, with a huge and splendid visitor’s centre, entry fees, shuttle buses to the site, audio tour headsets, thousands of visitors, the ubiquitous gift-shop, etc. Despite all the hoopla it is a gorgeous place and the shapes so regular it’s hard to think they aren't man-manufactured.  But that’s just human ego talking...
Jim on the giant's boot, left behind when he ran away
a brief rest and a listen to the audio tour
it is amazing
and spectacular 

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